What happens when two heritage brands – one Slovakian, the other Scottish – cross paths? Picture a simple plimsoll: its design is understated, with clean lines, a rounded toe, a flexible rubber sole, and organic cotton laces. But its defining feature is a waxed cotton coating, bringing a subtle tactility that quietly balances craftsmanship with function.
When Igor Grosaft, owner of Slovakian trainer brand Novesta, considered releasing a waxed cotton iteration of the brand’s most popular shoe, the Star Master, he faced a fork in the road. A water-resistant version was an ongoing request from his customers, and he knew he could launch a satisfactory product by sourcing inexpensive waxed cotton in bulk. Yet, compromising on quality or sustainability would betray the values that have guided Novesta since 1939.
Then Halley Stevensons, the Dundee-based waxed cotton specialist, entered the picture, and the road ahead was suddenly clear: here was a long-established factory as dedicated to heritage and sustainability as Novesta itself. “It was just the perfect fit,” Igor reflects, “I received many different samples from different companies, but Halley Stevensons was the natural first choice for me.” Both businesses rely on time-honoured techniques to craft their wares – Halley Stevensons pulls from an even deeper history, having first opened its doors in 1864. All these years later, the production of its waxed cotton, from the dyeing to the finishing, still takes place under one roof.
Halley Stevensons’ raw fabric is sourced from India using traceable cotton. The Hybrid Aero™ fabric is treated in various stages at its factory - dyed and sprayed or padded with emulsified wax for a water-resistant and hard-wearing finish. “It’s a fabric that’s built to last a lifetime,” says Dorothy Arnott, the Sales and Marketing Manager at Halley Stevensons. “And with regular re-proofing, its water-resistant qualities can withstand years of use while taking on unique character.”
Once the fabric is ready, it travels to Slovakia to be transformed into footwear. Like Halley Stevensons, Novesta has complete control of the production, which takes place in the shoemaker’s own factory. “We still operate in the original premises,” says Igor, “using the same technology we always have. Sticking to these roots has preserved our identity as a low-impact brand.” When the machines were first put to work, artificial materials were on the cusp of invention, and the technology remains unequipped to handle synthetics. Today, their limits might be seen as a blessing; an enduring testament to the more planet-kind practices of earlier manufacturing.
Leather, natural rubber, and cotton canvas continue to form Novesta shoes, with the latter two featuring on the classic Star Master model. The rubber is attached to the body of the trainer in a process called vulcanisation, which doesn’t require glue or other adhesives; instead, it depends on a combination of electricity, heat, and pressure. “We use a technology that was developed in the 1950s for this kind of shoe,” Igor explains. “It’s a very manual, labour-intensive process, but it’s cleaner and safer for workers because they’re not inhaling fumes from adhesives.”
Subtle impressions from the vulcanisation process are visible on the shoes, showcasing their journey through many hands and machines. These marks serve as a badge of durability for a shoe designed to last. While regular Star Masters are low-maintenance and hard-wearing, the waxed cotton version adds water resistance, enhancing their suitability for daily wear. “The shoe was originally released as an option for light summer hikes – if you look at the sole, you’ll see a little symbol of a hiker with a backpack,” Igor points out. “But now, they’re typically worn as a casual everyday shoe.”
The three colourways exclusive to TOAST were selected with this purpose in mind. “We wanted to offer colours that would go with everything and be easy to wear every day,“ says TOAST Accessories Buyer Sophie Vent. “We have Birch which is a beautiful neutral, along with a classic dark Indigo, then a rich Cumin shade which brings a brighter pop of colour.”
Now several seasons into their partnership, Igor is glad he trusted his intuition and sparked an alliance with Halley Stevensons. “They get our story, and their communication is flawless,” he says of his Scottish collaborators. “It couldn’t have gone any better.” And it’s not only Igor who is grateful for the union. While it usually takes time for a new design to gain traction, even for a brand as established as Novesta, the popularity of the waxed cotton Star Master plimsolls was instantaneous. “I think it’s because our customers appreciate quality, and they value materials that hold history.”
Discover the Novesta Star Master Waxed Cotton Plimsolls in Birch, Indigo, and Cumin, exclusive to TOAST.
Words by Bébhinn Campbell.
Photography by Martin Safro and courtesy of Novesta.
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